About the Process
Clay-Making:
Each piece at Laughing River Pottery begins with my own self-designed porcelain clay, mixed by hand in my small studio. Using my clay recipe, I mix a variety of minerals together as a watery "slip", and allow them to dry for a few days on a plaster board. After the clay reaches the right consistency, it's "foot-wedged" to soften and remove lumps.
My clay is designed to be fully "vitrified" (or "glassy") after firing. Thus, the clay is extremely durable and perfect for functional use.
Each piece at Laughing River Pottery begins with my own self-designed porcelain clay, mixed by hand in my small studio. Using my clay recipe, I mix a variety of minerals together as a watery "slip", and allow them to dry for a few days on a plaster board. After the clay reaches the right consistency, it's "foot-wedged" to soften and remove lumps.
My clay is designed to be fully "vitrified" (or "glassy") after firing. Thus, the clay is extremely durable and perfect for functional use.
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Above: The process of "foot-wedging" my porcelain clay. I love being connected to my clay from the very beginning. Foot-wedging makes this beautiful "wave-like" pattern. |
The Making Process:
After foot-wedging, I hand "spiral" wedge the clay in preparation for creating pieces. Hand wedging removes air from the clay and aligns clay particles. Most of my work is created on the wheel with alteration or hand-sculpting afterward. Every piece is created individually. All decorations, including the animal faces on my mugs, are done individually using simple carving tools.
After foot-wedging, I hand "spiral" wedge the clay in preparation for creating pieces. Hand wedging removes air from the clay and aligns clay particles. Most of my work is created on the wheel with alteration or hand-sculpting afterward. Every piece is created individually. All decorations, including the animal faces on my mugs, are done individually using simple carving tools.
Glazing process:
My glaze processes vary depending on the type of effect I'd like to achieve. Many of my pieces are glazed with crystalline glazes, which are painted onto the piece in many even coats. These pieces are fired in a special firing cycle that includes a long "hold" period at around 2000F, when the zinc-silica crystals will precipitate out of the molten glass and form circular fronds.
My pitcher plant vases are glazed with various microcrystalline glazes. Each piece has 5-10 different glazes painted on in patterns. During firing, these glazes will melt and create a "marbled" effect, similar to the veins on the real pitcher plants.
I fire to cone 6 in an oxidation kiln. All glazes are my own formulas, and are designed to be functional and durable. I enjoy developing new glazes and continue to expand colors and effects.
My glaze processes vary depending on the type of effect I'd like to achieve. Many of my pieces are glazed with crystalline glazes, which are painted onto the piece in many even coats. These pieces are fired in a special firing cycle that includes a long "hold" period at around 2000F, when the zinc-silica crystals will precipitate out of the molten glass and form circular fronds.
My pitcher plant vases are glazed with various microcrystalline glazes. Each piece has 5-10 different glazes painted on in patterns. During firing, these glazes will melt and create a "marbled" effect, similar to the veins on the real pitcher plants.
I fire to cone 6 in an oxidation kiln. All glazes are my own formulas, and are designed to be functional and durable. I enjoy developing new glazes and continue to expand colors and effects.
Finishing Steps:
After unloading the kiln, I sand each bottom with diamond sandpaper for a smooth finish. And voila, the pieces are complete!
After unloading the kiln, I sand each bottom with diamond sandpaper for a smooth finish. And voila, the pieces are complete!
